Wednesday, 5 February 2014

Training for Sport Climbing

Back in the summer of 2012 I went to Gorges du Loup for a 5 week trip, and in between pinching tufas until my thumbs were raw and desperately trying to trick my way up things using kneebars, I decided to write up an article/document with some training knowledge. Having served its purpose of stopping rest days getting boring it promptly languished on my computer doing nothing, until recently when I finally got around to digging it out, finishing it off and getting it online.


This link should take you to a downloadable pdf:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-40C59n2E_4aVRyYjY5U1Rtc2c/edit?usp=sharing

If anyone has any comments then either use the function at the end of this post or message me on facebook, I'd be particularly interested to hear what other people who are into their training think of it.
(EDIT: 6/2/2014 I've updated it to include a new section '2.1. Capacity and Power: An Analogy')

In the meantime I've been trying to rehab an infuriating collateral ligament injury, which means a lot of deadhanging on front 3 and failing to deadhang on pinky monos. Still, at least the weather's been abysmal so it's not felt like missing out on too much!

Sam making the most of a rare dry afternoon





15 comments:

  1. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

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  2. Hi Alex,
    I've got a question about your explanations on training. How Do you Train for strength? You are talking about all the other aspects, but not strength, or did i get sth. wrong?
    Cheers, Steffen

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    1. I didn't really feel like I had anything to add to what's already out there on strength training so I didn't bother putting much in about it

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    2. Hi Alex, how can I contact you? I have few questions about one hand dead hangs training.

      Peter

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  3. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

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  4. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  5. In your limited time example, when you say "4 x strength, including 2 x An Cap" are you including an cap in with the strength (does this mean 6 total workouts or 4, 2 of which should be an cap)? Thanks very much for the guide, I'm trying to design my next cycle with it in mind.

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  6. I was meaning 4 sessions, two of which would be pure strength and two of which would be a short strength session followed by ancap...

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    1. Awesome, thanks very much for the clarification! Time to go build my plan :)

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  7. Hi Alex,
    Only thanks.
    I started with your trainning method 3 years ago, before that i was 2 years off climbing because my back, 5 herniated disc... When i started climbing again i read your little trainning book and i started training really hard, using your method...base-peak...
    I have to tell you before my back injury my maximun grade was 8a+ after 10 years climbing. after trainnig with your method two years i did 8c in 30 tries, 8b in 10-15, 8a+ 4-6 tries. And i love the training method.

    i have seen this web today and i wanted to thanks you from spain.

    keep strong,
    Rober!

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    1. Hi Rober,
      Thanks for your message! Glad to hear that the training has been working well for you and that you've liked it.
      Keep enjoying the climbing :)
      Alex

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    2. Hi Roberto
      Can you please share some more details in terms of how do you apply the Alex's training into your routine ? Im climbing for 16 years almost trying defining spmething here and there and Im stuck in some kind of plateu :(
      I would like to find out more how people trasnfer these in to the daily/weekly routine.
      Thanks

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  8. I don’t even know how I ended up here, but I thought this post was good. I do not know who you are but certainly you are going to a famous blogger if you aren’t already Cheers!
    www.guessnothing.com

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  9. Positive site, where did u come up with the information on this posting? I'm pleased I discovered it though, ill be checking back soon to find out what additional posts you include.
    Sports

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